.:ARS AROMATICA:.
"The most beautiful makeup for a woman is passion, but cosmetics are easier to buy."
                                                                                              —Yves Saint Laurent

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If you're new to this blog, then read our guides to the basics: Skin (Part I), Skin (Part II), The Supernatural, Color Theory I, Color Theory II, Eyes, and Brushes.

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Contents
· The Sketchbook: Twenty Answers (Li Wen)
· Beauty Notes: Nine-to-Fives

Favored
Art Tattler
the glamourai
The Non-Blonde
Perfume Shrine
Lisa Eldridge
Garance Doré
Smitten Kitchen
Into The Gloss
Grain de Musc
Lacquerized
Res Pulchrae
Drivel About Frivol
The Selfish Seamstress
Killer Colours
Bois de Jasmin
Glossed In Translation
Jak and Jil
Toto Kaelo
Worship at the House of Blues
I Smell Therefore I Am
Food Wishes
The Natural Haven
Messy Wands
1000 Fragrances
Moving Image Source
Wondegondigo
The Emperor's Old Clothes
M. Guerlain
Colin's Beauty Pages
Barney's jewelry department
Parfümrien
loodie loodie loodie
The Straight Dope
Sea of Shoes
London Makeup Girl
Sakecat's Scent Project
Asian Models
Ratzilla Cosme
Smart Skincare
Illustrated Obscurity
A.V. Club
Tom & Lorenzo: Mad Style
Eiderdown Press
Beauty and the Bullshit
La Garçonne
Flame Warriors
Everyday Beauty
Fashion Gone Rogue
Now Smell This
Dempeaux
Fashionista
The Cut
A Fevered Dictation
Nathan Branch
101 Cookbooks

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The Sketchbook: Twenty Answers (Li Wen)
by Li Wen

Godard Breathless

Jean Seberg wears Jean-Paul Belmondo’s hat in a scene from “Breathless,” by Godard.


1. Favorite book?
The Left Hand of Darkness by Ursula K. Le Guin and A Canticle for Leibowitz by Walter M. Miller, Jr. I have an unabashed love of "soft" sci-fi, or what is also called speculative fiction.

2. Country of origin:
Born in the city of Shanghai in China. Lived in Australia since I was 6.

3. How many red lipsticks do you own?
22 or so lipsticks, 2 lipliners and 2 glosses. My current favourites are Cle de Peau Beaute R1 Black Baccara and R3 Leonardis, one a dark burgundy skating the boundary of purple and red, the other a reddish-rose.

4. Most worn, beloved item of clothing in your closet?
Right now, it's probably my beige snakeskin loafers from Milani for David Jones. I have had them for about 9 months, and they are scuffed, dirty, and have already been re-soled. I have a somewhat "out of sight, out of mind" attitude about things, so I am never precious with them. I tend to lose, tear, or otherwise destroy beloved items of clothing - for instance my red and white paisley jacket with faux shearing collar from Nu+Nan (disappeared, probably left on a train somewhere), the dusty pink silk blouse from Saba (bleach stained), or the white blouse with ruffled collar from Cue (cigarette burn).

5. How do you take your coffee?
Soy cappuccino with half a teaspoon of sugar. First thing in the morning, I drink a big mug of watery coffee made with a Robert Timms coffee bag, some raw sugar, and a dash of soy milk.

6. Pet peeve, beauty-related:
People who equate self-proclaimed lack of concern about their appearance - "Oh, what do I care what I wear when there are starving children in Africa!" - with moral superiority. To me, it shows in nearly all cases a blissful lack of awareness of what true monk-like lack of judgement and simplicity is.

7. Which product has kept your loyalty for longest?
Blistex Lip Conditioner with SPF 20. I've been using it continuously since high school.

8. Skin type:
Combination, tending to dryness on the cheeks in Winter.

9. What was your undergraduate major?
I had three: economics, political economy, and philosophy.

10. Have you ever cut your own hair?
No, I have no skills in that department at all, and my hair is too thick and too short to mess around with.

11. What blogs do you check daily?
The Non-Blonde, The Playlist, Red Carpet Fashion Awards, Kottke.org, Tumblr, and my reading list on LiveJournal.

12. The five most extravagant things on your wishlist (but still intend to buy some day):
Loewe Amazona, a classic, structured lady-like bag large enough to hold everything I need; Ormonde Jayne Champaca parfum; Ole Lynggaard sweet drops bracelet in olive or navy; a large framed print of Falls Creek III by Melissa; a bottle of 2001 Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino.

Lynggard Cle de Peau Loewe Amazona ChampacaOle Lynggaard Sweet Drops Bracelet / Cle de Peau Beaute Ultra Rich Lipstick / Ormonde Jayne Champaca / Loewe Bolso Amazona

13. Signature scent:
Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental, although this year I have also been wearing a lot of Fille en Aiguilles and Azuree.

14. Fashion and film---which inspires you most?
Jean-Luc Godard's À bout de souffle (Breathless) and Jean-Jacques Annaud's L'Amant (The Lover), both of which I saw in my early teens. You can find most of the important elements of my personal style in them: the boyish cool and insouciance of Jean Seberg and Jean-Paul Belmondo's characters, the love of vintage men's brimmed hats, a minimalist aesthetic that pares accessories down to the basics in their unembellished form (shoes, bag, ring, watch). And French chic, always - ironic, nonconformist, and above all, "not aspirational", as Luca Turin defines it - underpinning everything.

15. When you binge on snacks, do you prefer salt or sweet?
I don't normally snack, and usually only on fruit - citrus and stoned fruits in particular. I am, however, very partial to dessert.

16. How do you highlight your best feature?
Objectively, my lips are probably my best feature - full, near-symmetrical and in well-maintained condition - so I wear rich, vibrant lip colours well. Brighter lip colours also help divert attention away from my skin, which lately has been less than perfect.

17. Where is your favorite place to shop for makeup?
Tangs at Orchard, Singapore and Mecca Cosmetica in Myer Sydney. Between them, they stock most of my favourite brands that are available in the Asia-Pacific region, and they get new collections fairly early. I value friendly and unobtrusive service, professional knowledge, and the patience/willingness to let me try products on.

18. Dream vacation:
The route taken by William Dalrymple in "From the Holy Mountain", across the former Byzantine Empire.

19. Worst habit:
Smoking. It's terrible for the skin (among other things), but then it apparently also improves your sense of smell, so I suppose that's some consolation.

20. The beauty maxim you live by:
Never wear something that you don't feel comfortable in.

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9/26/2011 [5]



Beauty Notes: Nine-to-Fives
by Li Wen

A look into my everyday beauty habits and routines, inspired by the series "The Top Shelf" at Into The Gloss.

Portrait

Bathroom

Bathroom drawer

I have been wearing makeup regularly only since I was twenty-two. In the few years since, I have managed to become high-maintenance pretty quickly. But being also bookish, introverted, and working in an industry that demands a conservative look from me, there is by design nothing flashy or theatrical about my day-to-day appearance. Left to my own devices, I favour the urban elegance and sophistication of La Garçonne; it's great fun to be able to play with colour, but nothing feels quite so right on me as a barely-there eye paired with a red lip (NARS Rouge d'Enfer, in the case of the photo above).

When it comes to skincare, I appreciate its importance without being fully committed to the ritual of facials, exfoliates, and treatments, although I'll wager that it's only a matter of time. I use a combination of old faithfuls and new products that I am testing. First, I remove my make-up with Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil - one pump is sufficient for getting rid of everything, including waterproof mascara - before cleansing with an oil-targetting cleaner, followed by the application of layers of various toners, serums and creams. Shu Uemura Depsea Hydrability Intense Moisturising Concentrate is a stalwart that I wear on its own in summer and beneath a moisturiser or oil in winter. Another product I have repurchased many times is Clinique All About Eyes Rich; after too many bad experiences with eye creams on my sensitive skin, I tend to stick to what is known and safe. Huiles & Baumes Face Smoothing Serum is a rich facial oil I have been testing for the last month or so - I love the fresh herbal scent and the way it shrinks my pores.

Living in Australia, I enjoy being out in the sun, relaxing at the park or at the beach. However, I am all too conscious of the aging (not to mention cancerous) effects of UV exposure. Even when not wearing makeup, I use a non-greasy moisturiser with SPF 30+ on my face - To Save Face from Mecca Cosmetica*. Stashed in various places around the house are also tubes of the less expensive Banana Boat SPF 30+ sunscreen - in the car glove compartment, near the front door where I keep my keys, in the laundry, etc.

My lips chap easily, especially in cold, windy weather, so I never leave the house without lip balm, preferable ones that are non-sticky, flavourless, and colourless. I keep Blistex Lip Conditioner with SPF 20 around the house, on my bedside table and at my desk, and a tube of Clinique Superbalm Lip Treatment in every purse. Both are great, intensely nourishing and not so expensive that you can't afford numerous back-ups. Lip balm is something that needs to be applied frequently and liberally, so you never want to be caught without one handy.

If my skin is clear, I am happy to get away with just wearing tinted moisturiser and some concealer. When I do wear foundation, I apply it directly with my fingers - it's quicker and saves me the bother of washing a foundation brush after every use - before dusting a bit of loose powder over it to keep it in place.

Brow pencil is a minimum requirement when mine are so naturally sparse and patchy - I use Shu Uemura in the shade 06 Acorn. On a normal day, all I wear on my lids are matte or satin browns and taupes, for a look that is polished, but not painstakingly drawn in. Even my eyeliner and mascara are brown. I am already on my third tube of Shiseido Perfect Mascara in BR602, and I've lost count of how many of the Guerlain Eye Pencil in Kohl Me Brown 03 I have bought. I smudge the pencil into my upper lashline, to give my eyes some subtle definition. Gel and liquid liner has its occasional uses, but not whilst I am on the clock.

My go-to lip colour - lipstick, never lipgloss - is always changing. If you keep your eye makeup clean and effortless, it is a simple matter to change your look in the middle of a day by switching lip colours. I have a red imitation-leather lipstick case that I bought in the markets in Shanghai for around 150 RMB (or $21 AUD). It has an inbuilt mirror and holds three lipsticks, usually a sheer natural colour, a deeper berry or rose, and a red. Continental Couture has one that looks very similar but made from shark skin for £119.

Cutting my hair short was a decision I made the year I left high school, and it's been that length ever since. Short hair is freeing and conveniently low maintenance. But also, looking back at old photographs of myself, I feel like that person with long hair is a stranger, someone still wore school uniforms and had not yet been introduced to undergraduate anthropology. In a not unsubstantial way, we are not the same, just as I will not be the same person ten years hence. Identity is an ever-evolving thing, and often the outward change - manhood initiation rituals, the widow's weeds - marks also a significant internal overhaul. (The reverse is also true, and it is not in my interest here to quibble about direction of causality between the mental and the physical, for both are intrinsic and interdependent.) It takes me less than 5 seconds to style my hair: a few strokes with a synthetic and boar bristle brush is all it needs. If it is in a truly disastrous state of disarray, a tiny daub of Frederic Fekkai Glossing Cream, combed through with my fingers, is usually enough to tame it.

I do not have a signature fragrance, but I always come back to a select few, like Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental. In my work bag, I keep a Travalo filled with Chanel No. 19, for those times when I forget to apply before leaving the house. Perfume is the last step of my routine of getting ready. Without it, I always feel a little unfinished.


*Australian regulations don't allow SPF factor numerals greater than 30 to be claimed on sunscreen labels, for several reasons, so SPF 30+ is the highest level of sun protection that you will see on any product in Australia.

Top photo credit: Orion Mitchell, 2010

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8/21/2011 [11]




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