Labels: beauty notes, becca

7/22/2013 [5]

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Carica papaya, Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Coco-Caprylate, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, GlycerylStearate Citrate, Beeswax (Cera Alba), Gluconolactone, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Xanthan Gum, StearicAcid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Magnesium Aluminium Silicate, Fragrance (Parfum), Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Benzoate

Labels: beauty notes, mcarthur natural products, pawpaw extract

6/27/2013 [6]

Labels: beauty notes

9/26/2012 [3]

My work day make-up, never very adventurous, has attained a new pinnacle of corporate monotony. I won't bored you with the details; suffice it to say that I have lapsed to a ready-in-5 ethos, and can frequently be seen heading out the door without eyeliner. And what is more: I'm okay with that.

And perhaps it is to counterbalance all that unobtrusive naturalism I wear in the office that, when I do get the time and the inclination to play with colour, I tend to go all out.

The incredibly adorable Shokay S/S 2012 Campaign

One of the common questions that beauty bloggers get asked: "How do you do make-up on an Asian eye?" 

I have seen lots of very helpful videos on the topic (from Lisa Eldridge, Rae Morris, and others), but without fail, I personally find the question quite annoying and fetishistic. There isn't a one-shape-fits-all, stereotypical "Asian eye", just as there is no such thing as a "standard (i.e. Caucasian) eye". If you have a monolid, or long narrow eyes, or a creaseless lid, my best advice would be to start looking at images of women with monolids, narrow eyes, or creaseless lids. A copy of Vogue China will probably teach you more about make-up that is flattering for your eye shape than I could in a dozen posts. 

That, and practice. 

Take the above image from the Shokay S/S 2012 campaign, featuring a long, eye-lengthening flick of black liner, orange eyeshadow, and rosebud lips painted not in your typical geisha red, but a glossy tangerine. Since my eyes are more rounded than the model's, recreating the whimsical, wide-eyed look on my features took some adjustment in the width and angle of the flick, but the placement of the coloured pigments is more or less the same. 

Full coverage foundation would have been better for this look, to more closely match HD "perfection", but lazy as I was on a Saturday, I opted for the minimal coverage afforded by Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation, with some concealing around the nose, mouth, and under the eyes. Brows were filled in with my current favourite brow product, Cle de Peau Eyebrow Pencil in 101 (a mechanical pencil with built-in brush), and shaped in as much of a rounded arch as I could achieve. My own brows are very straight, nearly-perpendicular to the line down the centre of my nose; to get the same angle in the brows as the model in the photo would have taken more plucking and masking than I was prepared to deal with. (Compromises, compromises…)

To match the eyeshadow, I blended two vivid metallics from Shu Uemura (their names long lost to me, as they were depotted into a palette years ago), for a warm, shimmery orange that stands out just enough from my skin tone. Toward the inner third of the eyelid, I faded the orange slightly with NARS Silk Road, a very glittery pink-nude, and the outer corner was deepened with Kevyn Aucoin Copper, which is more brown and less metallic. 

The white under the eyes would have been best achieved with a pencil, but with none in my stash, I made do with a layer of Shu Uemura P42 (matte white with pink undertone), followed by Addiction Cigarette to better catch the light. A hint of Cigarette also went under the brow as a highlight.  

The main attraction, the liner, was drawn in with a liquid liner pen, Lancome Liner Definition in 01 (Black). Its soft, flexible felt tip is not as fine as I would like, but it is very easy to work with, even for someone as unused to drawing flicks as I am. It delivers very crisp edges and dark, velvety pigment. NARS Zen beneath cheekbones and a light dusting of Shiseido RD103 Petal on the cheeks finished off the face.

I am less than happy with the lips - not the lipstick, which is a mix of Shiseido Day Lily and Chantecaille Canna - but with the mauve undertone that peeked through despite the foundation and concealer I used to mask the natural colour of my lips. A seam between face and lips destroys the illusion of skin melding invisibly into the sides of the mouth, and draws attention to the unnaturalness of the painted "pout". A peach corrector might have been more effective here to counteract the dark purple. 

L-R (click to enlarge):
Shu Uemura P42 blush (as a white eyeshadow base)
Shu Uemura metallic orange eyeshadow (discontinued)
Shu Uemura metallic bronze eyeshadow (discontinued)
Kevyn Aucoin Copper (contour)
NARS Silk Road
Addiction Cigarette (highlight)
Shiseido OR418 Day Lily
Chantecaille Canna

Image source: Shokay 

Labels: addiction, beauty notes, chantecaille, cle de peau, kevyn aucoin, lancome, nars, shiseido, shokay, shu uemura

8/10/2012 [9]

"[W]e believe that change cannot and will not happen by outside pressure alone in a closed market. Change can only happen from within. When we enter the Chinese market, we will do our part to help make those changes.

"When we were considering expanding into China, a group of marketing consultants told us to remove the section of our company history that describes our crusade against animal testing. "It doesn't mean anything to the Chinese beauty customer," they said. Of course, we refused. Our “no animal testing” policy is part of who we are, and has been since day one. The news that animal issues don't even register with the average Chinese consumer was one of the biggest factors in our decision to go there. During Urban Decay's infancy, we worked hard to inform consumers about animal rights in the United States and Europe. The battleground for animal rights is now in China, and we want to be there to encourage dialogue and provoke change.

"We also hope to shed some light on women's rights issues in China. As a company that caters to a female customer, this is extremely important to us. For one thing, going into China is a way for us to advance women into important professional positions. We will help grow the cosmetics industry, which primarily employs and creates career paths for women. Although workers' employment rights are a relatively new concept there, progress has been made partially because of pressure from businesses, consumers, and advocacy groups from other countries. Based on this, our belief is that both an outside force and inside pressure for change can result in helping transform both the importance of women and animal testing policies in China. And more importantly, we hope to influence the perspective of the citizens on both of these issues.

"If we don't go to China, other companies without our beliefs will, and the culture will never change."

1. Chinese consumers are living in a moral vacuum and need to be educated re. enlightened values like animal/women's/workers'/[insert your own cause] rights by a socially responsible company (which we are, really) operating within the country's own boundaries. So actually, we're doing this for the Chinese people's own good.

2. Of course, we're also in it to make money. We hope to convince you of the rightness of our decision, but if you don't like it, then you can take your business elsewhere.

Labels: animal testing, beauty notes, china, corporate social responsibility, urban decay

6/06/2012 [13]

Shiseido debuted their Shimmering Rouge Lip Colour with 13 shades last year, following the trend of lipstick/gloss hybrids which also multi-task as lip conditioners (Chanel Rouge Coco Shine, Dior Addict, Guerlain Rouge Automatique, etc.). The shades released in 2011 were mostly warm peachy/pinky nudes, and while they were nothing so demure as the Rouge Coco Shines (can you tell that those are not my favourites?), none really caught my eye in particular until RS619 Venus.

Guerlain Gigolo // Cle de Peau R1 Black Baccara // Shiseido Venus // Chantecaille Heirloom // Shu Uemura WN270 // Guerlain 124 Samsara // Giorgio Armani Armanisilk 30

Described accurately by Shiseido as a "profound reddish violet", Venus (3rd from left) is a newly released Shimmering Rouge from the SS12 collection. Bold and bright, it is fully as pigmented as most lipsticks - a single swipe delivering even, opaque colour - yet has a soft, balmy texture and slightly glossy finish. On me, the wear-time before reapplication is roughly 4 hours with drinks and smoking breaks, which is also similar to a lipstick. When the colour fades, it does so evenly and leaves a hint of a stain.

Comparison with the Chantecaille Lip Chics, my favourite lipstick/gloss hybrid formula, I'm pleased to say, is favourable. Both are extremely moisturising and comfortable to wear. Although the Shiseido Shimmering Rouge is considerably more pigmented and requires greater precision to apply than the Lip Chics (my go-to lipsticks to put on whilst driving or without a mirror), I appreciate its flexibility: you can easily sheer it out to create the effect of a stain, or layer it on to achieve an intense, dimensional look. And like the Lip Chics, the packaging of the Shimmering Rouge lipsticks is light, slim and discrete, ideal for the handbag.

I have worn Venus several times this week at work, and I am finding it to be the perfect pick-me-up for these drab, rainy days Sydney has been having this summer.

Eyes: NARS Jolie Poupee // Lips: Shiseido RS619 Venus

Floating images of my own disembodied lips somewhat creep me out, but you can see a close up lip swatch of Venus here.

Labels: beauty notes, chantecaille, shiseido

2/08/2012 [4]

Exquisite design is often quiet and unobtrusive. It is bad (or severely restricted) design that always sticks out like a sore thumb: stairs that are an inconvenient width or height, roads that disorientate and enrage drivers, shoes too uncomfortable or too delicate to do any actual walking in. When physical objects and negative spaces are combined in a way that mimics the organic, responding to the intuitive way that we do things, we are in a designed environment that not only makes life easier and more pleasant, but which is also potentially directing your actions in a subtle manner by creating new patterns of behaviour.

Take my Travel Toiletry Organiser from Lapoché. Designed, and readily available in Australia, it is true to its name: a toiletries bag that actually helps you to get organised when you are travelling. The exterior is made of soft, durable fabric and reinforced with foam, so the contents are protected when it is in your suitcase. The bottom is flat to stand bottles upright, and to take up a minimum amount of table space; there is also a hook to allow you to hang it up, saving you even more space. The front unzips to display a very spacious central compartment surrounded by 3 zippered mesh pouches and 5 side pockets for bottles.

The beauty of the bag is that it is large enough to hold everything that you could possibly want to take on a trip, but it also suits the minimalists because it is both lightweight and compressible in itself. The large, open front means that everything you bring is easily visible and accessible, which helps you to realise when something is either superfluous or missing.

The way I use my Lapoché is to store my body/skincare and hair products directly in the central compartment, and to keep small, delicate or easily-lost items in two separate bags that are zipped into the Lapoché when I am on the go. All makeup goes into a Bloom makeup bag which rests upright, and my makeup brushes travel in a slim Shu Uemura travel roll. Everything - from tweezers to cotton buds to toothpaste - has its own place, and I can locate anything I want in a second.

When I arrive at a hotel, I take out my brush roll and makeup bag, un-pack only the bulkiest products, hang my Lapoché from the hook on the back of the bathroom door, and I'm done! Packing up to go is just as quick and hassle-free. In more than a dozen trips that I have taken with the Lapoché, I have never left a single thing behind in a hotel room.

Pictured above is all the contents of the main bag:

• Full-sized: Avene Hydrance Optimale Riche, La Roche Posay Effaclar K, Guerlain Abeille Royale Youth Serum, Clinique City Block, Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua, Pronamel (toothpaste) and toothbrush


• Sample/travel sized: NARS Potent EFA Cream, Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil, Bioderma Sensibio H2O, deodorant, Hada Labo Super Hyaluronic Acid Moisturizing Lotion (in Guerlain lotion bottle), shampoo and conditioner, DAX Indian Hemp (in travel tub), rubbing alcohol for cleaning brushes (in refillable spray bottle), and various perfumes


• Mason Pearson travel brush, tweezers, emery board, hair clip and pins


• Zip-lock bag w/ cotton pads and cotton buds


• Contact lenses

And that's not including everything in the smaller makeup bag:

• Eyeshadow, bronzer, pressed powder, cream blush, concealer, under-eye concealer, lip balm


• Mascara, eyeliner pencils, brow pencil, eyelash curler


• Sharpener, hair elastics, spatula, lip brush, hairpins


• Spare contact lenses

If you have noticed that something extremely vital is missing - do not fear! I keep lipsticks as the last, finishing step of my toilette, in a leather case that holds not one, but three tubes, and that fits in my handbag. I find that three (a natural/MLBB, a photo-friendly berry/clove, and a dramatic red) is usually enough to cover all events and situations on a single trip.

Labels: beauty notes, lapoché

1/18/2012 [10]

If the Christmas-New Year's period has found me somewhat quiet, blogging-wise, it's because I was travelling in Japan for nine days - visiting the Shiseido flagship store in The Ginza, feeding the sacred deer in Nara Park, walking around the Floating Garden Observatory in Osaka, and testing as many hard-to-find Japanese brands (ie. Suqqu, Hakuhodo, ADDICTION by Ayako, THREE Cosmetics, RMK, Elegance, and Paul & Joe) as I could get my hands on.

When it came to eyeshadows, the stand-out brand was ADDICTION. I am not a fan or a wearer of idealised East-Asian eye makeup: the combination of pale shimmer and barely-there colour with a very strongly defined lash line and extremely thick (often false) eyelashes. The ADDICTION eyeshadow range includes almost 60 colours, covering your basic neutrals but also many strong, fashion-forward colours, atypical of a Japanese brand. Most have pearl or metallic finishes, and the pigmentation and texture of these eyeshadows could give Shu Uemura (back when it was at its best) a run for its money. They are buttery-soft, and even when applied dry, have an intensity that appears almost wet.

ADDICTION Eyeshadows in (L-R) Shangri-La, Keshi, Arabian Ruby, and Cigarette. All shadows have been swatched dry. Click to enlarge image.

ADDICTION pressed eyeshadows are available as singles (2000 Yen each) which you can fit into compact cases. There is also a wide range of designed eyeshadow quads (9000 Yen) and sextets (13500 Yen), not to mention eyeshadow/blush combinations. I already had my eye on some specific shades, and decided on buying an empty 4-pan compact case, which I then requested that the sales assistant fill with the eyeshadows in Shangri-La (metallic red), Keshi (pearly silver gunmetal), Arabian Ruby (metallic aubergine-brown), and Cigarette (frosty white glitter). There was also a matte pinky-red shade, Alice, that I nearly got instead of Shangri-La. In the end, however, the softness and richness of the metallic won me over.

Equally fascinated and terrified by pink/red eyeshadow, having bought and discarded NARS Carravaggio duo (Azaela pink and irridescent purple) in the past, I had been searching for a very deep, punchy red since November, when Lisa Eldridge posted her red eyeshadow look video. The trend was undeniable, and I was obstinate that there was a way I could make it work with my warm, yellowy-olive undertones.

My previous attempt to wear red on the eyes used a NARS brick-red cream blush, Constantinople, in lieu of an actual red eyeshadow - and it wasn't bad, as attempts go. The warm matte red is easier for me to wear, but did not have the sparkling alienness that I was going for. This time, I was able to build up the red to the point of creamy opaqueness with Shangri-La. The colour itself is slightly cool, but not to the extent of being unwearable on me, especially when applied heavily with a wet MAC 239 brush; on someone fair and cool-toned, Shangri-La would appear more pink than red. To give depth to the outer corner and the crease, I dipped the same MAC 239 in Arabian Ruby, removing most of the dark purple on the back of my hand, before blending it gently into the red. Finally, I used Cigarette to highlight the centre of the eye socket, and lined the upper lash line with a black pencil, and then Keshi (wet).

At the Thakoon F/W 2011 show, glowing red and orange eyeshadow was paired with desaturated lips. I preferred the opposite: a closely matched red or pinky shade on the lips, which was what Eldridge used in her video. For my version of the look, I layered a shockingly bright, jewel-toned fuchsia (Anna Sui V 360) under a pinky-rose with a more neutral base (Utowa Rose 55). Offset by pale cheeks untouched by blush, the result is weird and unapologetic, but oddly flattering.

Click to enlarge image.

Have you ever worn red eyeshadow in public? I noticed many older women in Japan wearing a very subtle hint of red around their eyes, and assumed it to be a vestige of traditional kabuki makeup. Certainly I hope this experiment of mine has convinced you that the NARS Hanamachi Eyeshadow Palette is not merely a collector's item to be admired and not used. You might be surprised - as I was - how wearable red eyeshadow can be.

Labels: addiction, anna sui, beauty notes, lisa eldridge, nars, utowa

1/07/2012 [18]

One of the foundational tenets of beauty and makeup: Just because you're born a certain way, it doesn't mean that you have to put up with it.

Have thick, slippery hair that doesn't stay put? Getting it cropped to your chin, I discovered when I was seventeen, simplifies things enormously. I barely need to run fingers, much less a brush, through my hair in the morning before stepping out the door.

And after years of telling myself that there was nothing to be done about my naturally oily hair and scalp, I recently had a mental turn-around. Constant travel and a hectic schedule was making it difficult for me to wash my hair with the frequency and regularity it needed if itching and build-up were not to set in - which was to say every other day. Skip a wash, and on the third day I would be a fidgeting ball of acutest misery; my hair lank and flat, too greasy to hold any volume. At about the same time, my skin had begun to clear up after months of hormonal breakouts, and I was conscious of the fact that transfer of dirt and oil from my hair to my face - via hands, fringes, and pillows - could very well reverse this improvement.

I decided to try an oil treatment - reasoning that, just as a rejuvenating face oil helped to get my excess sebum-producing combination skin under control, the same might hold true for my scalp. René Furterer Complexe 5 (400 RMB) was the only product that seemed to fit the bill in Sephora (Shanghai). A concentrated toning and deep-cleansing treatment containing 53% pure essential oils of orange and lavender, it stimulates microcirculation in the scalp to enhance growth and regeneration, and increases the effectiveness of other treatment products you use after it. You can literally feel it working, as your scalp starts to experience a warm and tingling sensation seconds after applying.

Step 1: Use the narrow nozzle to direct Complexe 5 to the roots of dry, unwashed hair, applying it to the scalp in sections and massaging it in as you go. I usually start from the right side of my head, drawing lines from front to back until I reach my other ear. You don't need much - a 50mL bottle will last me about 8-10 months.

Step 2: Continue massaging gently for a minute or so, and then leave for 5-10 minutes. Usually, I put on a face mask at the same and then leave both on for longer than the prescribed 10 minutes as I wander around preparing vegetables for dinner, hanging up laundry, washing my makeup brushes, etc.

Step 3: Shampoo and condition as normal, or follow with another treatment if desired. Complexe 5 does not feel thick or sticky, and should be easy to wash out without residue; the limonene presumably makes this possible, acting as a solvent for the essential oils.

I have been using Complexe 5 once or twice a week, for two months now, in concert with Kérastase Bain Chroma Riche and a sulfate-free conditioner. After the first fortnight, my hair had already passed the 4 days test: a hitherto unheard of 96 hours between washes before the itching started to drive me insane.

Two weeks ago, when I had my hair and scalp under a 300x microscopic camera at the Kérastase Institute in Sydney, Revo Hair Atelier - something I would have had neither the confidence nor the desire to do before I started using Complexe 5* - the professional diagnosis confirmed what I already knew: that my hair was very healthy, and that my scalp, though still a tiny bit oily, by no means constituted a problem. Instead of setting me on the regime for oily hair, the technicians at Revo washed, treated and conditioned my hair with products designed for the maintenance of colour-treated hair. If that's not evidence of effectiveness, I don't know what is.

INGREDIENTS: Limonene, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil (Orange/Citrus Dulcis), Fragrance (Parfum), Ricinus Communis Seed Oil (Castor/Ricinus Communis), Hexylene Glycol, Glyceryl Linoleate, Lavandula Hybrida Oil (Lavandula Hybrida), Citral, Origanum Majorana Leef Oil (Origanum Majorana ). Thymus Vulgaris Oil (Thyme, Thymus Vulgaris), Linalool, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Geraniol, Glyceryl Linolenate, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract (Origanum Vulgare).

* Going to a luxe salon or spa is a bit like having a cleaning lady come to your house. You put in extra work so as not to be seen as an embarrassing mess when you/they appear.

Labels: beauty notes, kerastase, rene furterer

12/07/2011 [2]

I love backstage photos of models' makeup from fashion shows, and frequently use them as sources of inspiration. Some looks are kooky and extreme, others are wearable and natural, easily emulated. While face-charts and beauty breakdowns are primarily released for the benefit of beauty editors, they are also an excellent resource for makeup fanatics and makeup artists, which is why you will commonly find them now posted on beauty blogs.

During the week-long Chinese National Day Holiday, I picked three photos from my album of inspiration images on my iPad, and tried to recreate them using only what I have on hand here in Shanghai*. Bear in mind that I am not a makeup artist, merely an enthusiast. Skill is something only acquired through practice and observation; all you need to arm yourself with is a sense of adventure, and a willingness to go a little out of your everyday comfort zone. Makeup, after all, is not permanent. If you don't like the result, just wash it off.

Since my original intention when I started these experiments was not to show the pictures online, but to merely have some fun on my day off, I did not research that were products used in any systematic way until after I had completed my own take on it. Nor was I aiming for perfect verisimilitude - if I knew a pale lip was going to be ghastly on me, I substituted it with a brighter pigment. However, I have included links to the breakdowns wherever I could identify the show and the makeup artist behind it.

Base used throughout: Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua (B30 Beige-Sable) and Cle de Peau Beaute Concealer (Beige). I was putting on and removing looks too quickly, however, to be bothered with powder, so pray excuse the shine.

Look 1. Christian Dior S/S 2012 - Pat McGrath
An easy one to start with. The model is Sun Fei Fei, and there are some more images of the look here.

Eyes: Sun's eyebrows are pretty amazing to begin with; mine naturally needed more work, pencil and powder to make them thicker and darker. There appears to be some tan/golden brown eyeshadow on outer half of the model's eyes. Adapting slightly from the photo to suit my differently shaped eyes, I applied the middle shade from the Shiseido Strata trio into my crease. A dark brown pencil smudged into the lashline, then a layer of brown mascara finished off the eyes.

Cheeks: NARS Zen, a nude blush, to contour beneath the cheekbones.

Lips: An orangey-red lipstick, applied with a lipbrush. I only have one warm red with me in Shanghai, Cle de Peau Beaute R2, so I used that. Sun looks like she was wearing a gloss over the lipstick, but I couldn't find one so I left the lipstick fairly matte.

Wearability: 7/10. A slightly bolder variant of my normal day-off makeup.

Look 2. Rodarte S/S 2011 - James Kaliardos for NARS
Round, navy-blue smokey eye with lavender lips. Beauty breakdown here, which shows the same look on a Caucasian model with deep-set eyes; the shape of my eyes are somewhere in between that and Liu Wen's monolid, so once again, I changed it from the inspiration photos.

Eyes: Instead of navy, I used a blackened teal (Chanel Murano quad), layered under a shimmery sky blue from Shu Uemura. A creamy black pencil went on my waterline, while mascara was neglected entirely. Brows had just the tiniest bit of NARS Bali brushed through them with the Shu Uemura 6OB to fill in gaps.

Cheeks: Skipped it. Kaliardos, however, used a NARS cream blush (Penny Lane).

Lips: Not having any nude or lavender lipsticks or glosses, I used the closest thing I had, a shimmering coral lipstick from NARS called Outsider. Ideally, though, I would have gone for something paler and more neutral, maybe a light mauve like Chanel Ingenue.

Wearability: 5/10. Strictly a night-time look, but not outrageous.

Look 3. Derek Lam S/S 2010 - Tom Pecheux for NARS
This circus-inspired makeup pre-dates Pecheux becoming the creative makeup director for Estee Lauder. A shame, because while his work is never less than gorgeous, I don't think he has done anything quite as weird and wonderful since going to Estee Lauder. This look he created with NARS products has stuck in my mind ever since I first saw it. Breakdown here.

Eyes: Here is where a few extra eyeshadow brushes would have come in handy, so all these colours didn't get muddied from being applied with dirty brushes.

Because I was working off just the image I had on my iPad, I had to guess at the colours and their placement. The purple I used was NARS Jolie Poupee (right side) mixed with MUFE 92, the blue in the inner corner a mixture of Jolie Poupee (left side) and the same light blue Shu Uemura shadow I used in Look 2. An orange shadow from Shu Uemura replaced NARS Mediteranee on the browbone, while a shimmery Shu Uemura green mixed with the olive side of NARS Nouveau Monde was my substitute for the emerald green from NARS Misfits under the eye. The lightest coat of brown mascara was used. Brows were left over from previous look.

Cheeks: I forgot about the cheeks, although checking the breakdown of the look now, I can see that Pecheux used a pink (Desire) and an orange (Taj Mahal) blush.

Lips: My lips are naturally quite dark, so I went with a sheer pink lipstick, Granville Dior Addict, instead of trying to tone them down with a lighter colour.

Wearability: 3/10 on me. I think this would be amazing on someone fairer, with light-coloured eyes, but with my features, it just makes me look unfocused and tired.

*My main residence and the larger part of my stash is in Sydney.

Labels: beauty notes, james kaliardos, nars, pat mcgrath, tom pecheux

10/15/2011 [7]

Thanks to some heavy guns which were recently added to my skincare arsenal (Guerlain Abeille Royale Youth Serum, Sisley Botanical Facial Mask with Tropical Resins, La Roche Posay Effaclar K and Effaclar A.I.), I have not suffered a major breakout in weeks. The scars and pigmentation from old blemishes will take a lot longer to clear, of course, but at least for the moment, I don't feel like cringing every time I look at my own unmade-up face in the mirror.

So, perfect time to show you what difference minimal coverage and, more importantly, brows can make.

The above image on the left is me freshly washed, moisturised and prepped, but without any makeup on. Note the sallowness around the eyes (liver disease? or not enough sleep? the hypochondriac in me wonders), and the sparse and uneven brows.

Now look at the other photo of me (right), only minutes later with the bare essentials on:

Step 1: a light foundation (Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua) applied with my hands, concentrating on the T-zone;

Step 2: concealer (Cle de Peau), applied with fingertips under the eyes, on the eyelid and around the nose; and finally

Step 3: brow pencil (Shu Uemura Hard 9) to define and fill in my brows.

The difference is easily achieved and yet dramatic on a face like mine, enhancing the reality of my skin and features by compensating for their weaknesses, without giving the appearance of "visible" makeup. If not quite bright-eyed - this was before my morning coffee - I look instantly better, more polished, healthy and awake.

To complete the "minimal makeup" look, I would need only a hint of blush and some lip balm. Then, and only then, am I ready to pop outside for some breakfast and to pick up my dry cleaning.

* * *

Edited to add:

Okay, that was a lie. This (left) is what I actually wore when I went out the door. With the bare bones of the look already in place, what is anything else really but the garnish? But for the sake of full disclosure, here is what I added:

• A not-too-heavy balm on the eyelids for a bit of gloss, a trick taken from Dick Page's book. I used Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream Lip Protectant.


• Black eyeliner (MUFE Aqua Eyes 0L).


• A light coat of a natural-looking mascara (Shiseido Perfect Mascara in brown). Although barely noticeable, if you're going to wear eyeliner, you may as well balance it with some subtle mascara.
  


• Some pale pink eyeshadow, patted into the makeshift eye-gloss with a finger, to brighten the eyes. I used a pale blush/highlighter, Shu Uemura P42 Glow On.


• Red lipstick, in this case Cle de Peau Beaute R2 Red Abundance Ultra Rich Lipstick.

After base and brows, red lipstick gives you the most bang for your buck, high impact for very little effort, or even the appearance of effort. And for a lazy Saturday morning, what more do you really need?

Image note: This is not a vanity post. All photos were taken on my iPhone 4, which is the only camera I can find at home. None of them have been retouched.

Labels: beauty notes, chanel, cle de peau, shu uemura

10/01/2011 [18]

A look into my everyday beauty habits and routines, inspired by the series "The Top Shelf" at Into The Gloss.

When it comes to skincare, I appreciate its importance without being fully committed to the ritual of facials, exfoliates, and treatments, although I'll wager that it's only a matter of time. I use a combination of old faithfuls and new products that I am testing. First, I remove my make-up with Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil - one pump is sufficient for getting rid of everything, including waterproof mascara - before cleansing with an oil-targetting cleaner, followed by the application of layers of various toners, serums and creams. Shu Uemura Depsea Hydrability Intense Moisturising Concentrate is a stalwart that I wear on its own in summer and beneath a moisturiser or oil in winter. Another product I have repurchased many times is Clinique All About Eyes Rich; after too many bad experiences with eye creams on my sensitive skin, I tend to stick to what is known and safe. Huiles & Baumes Face Smoothing Serum is a rich facial oil I have been testing for the last month or so - I love the fresh herbal scent and the way it shrinks my pores.

My lips chap easily, especially in cold, windy weather, so I never leave the house without lip balm, preferable ones that are non-sticky, flavourless, and colourless. I keep Blistex Lip Conditioner with SPF 20 around the house, on my bedside table and at my desk, and a tube of Clinique Superbalm Lip Treatment in every purse. Both are great, intensely nourishing and not so expensive that you can't afford numerous back-ups. Lip balm is something that needs to be applied frequently and liberally, so you never want to be caught without one handy.

If my skin is clear, I am happy to get away with just wearing tinted moisturiser and some concealer. When I do wear foundation, I apply it directly with my fingers - it's quicker and saves me the bother of washing a foundation brush after every use - before dusting a bit of loose powder over it to keep it in place.

Brow pencil is a minimum requirement when mine are so naturally sparse and patchy - I use Shu Uemura in the shade 06 Acorn. On a normal day, all I wear on my lids are matte or satin browns and taupes, for a look that is polished, but not painstakingly drawn in. Even my eyeliner and mascara are brown. I am already on my third tube of Shiseido Perfect Mascara in BR602, and I've lost count of how many of the Guerlain Eye Pencil in Kohl Me Brown 03 I have bought. I smudge the pencil into my upper lashline, to give my eyes some subtle definition. Gel and liquid liner has its occasional uses, but not whilst I am on the clock.

My go-to lip colour - lipstick, never lipgloss - is always changing. If you keep your eye makeup clean and effortless, it is a simple matter to change your look in the middle of a day by switching lip colours. I have a red imitation-leather lipstick case that I bought in the markets in Shanghai for around 150 RMB (or $21 AUD). It has an inbuilt mirror and holds three lipsticks, usually a sheer natural colour, a deeper berry or rose, and a red. Continental Couture has one that looks very similar but made from shark skin for £119.

Cutting my hair short was a decision I made the year I left high school, and it's been that length ever since. Short hair is freeing and conveniently low maintenance. But also, looking back at old photographs of myself, I feel like that person with long hair is a stranger, someone still wore school uniforms and had not yet been introduced to undergraduate anthropology. In a not unsubstantial way, we are not the same, just as I will not be the same person ten years hence. Identity is an ever-evolving thing, and often the outward change - manhood initiation rituals, the widow's weeds - marks also a significant internal overhaul. (The reverse is also true, and it is not in my interest here to quibble about direction of causality between the mental and the physical, for both are intrinsic and interdependent.) It takes me less than 5 seconds to style my hair: a few strokes with a synthetic and boar bristle brush is all it needs. If it is in a truly disastrous state of disarray, a tiny daub of Frederic Fekkai Glossing Cream, combed through with my fingers, is usually enough to tame it.

I do not have a signature fragrance, but I always come back to a select few, like Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental. In my work bag, I keep a Travalo filled with Chanel No. 19, for those times when I forget to apply before leaving the house. Perfume is the last step of my routine of getting ready. Without it, I always feel a little unfinished.

*Australian regulations don't allow SPF factor numerals greater than 30 to be claimed on sunscreen labels, for several reasons, so SPF 30+ is the highest level of sun protection that you will see on any product in Australia.

Top photo credit: Orion Mitchell, 2010

Labels: beauty notes, blistex, chanel, clinique, frederic fekkai, guerlain, huiles and baumes, la roche-posay, mecca cosmetica, nars, serge lutens, shu uemura

8/21/2011 [11]

Labels: beauty notes, nars, shiseido, shu uemura, yves saint laurent

8/13/2011 [16]

• My skin just likes Nivea Crème a lot. It forms an extremely comfortable barrier when the weather gets harsh. Despite its thick texture, it actually absorbs quite well: the trouble seems to be that it doesn't spread easily, so people often end up using more than they need. I always make sure to warm it up in the hand before applying for this reason.
• The Face Shop Arsainte Eco Therapy Toner is an excellent softener. It's gentle, hydrating, and as with the Nivea, I don't mind the scent, though some might.
• 4-way emery and buffing boards are actually not all that cheap, and they need to be replaced continually, but they're a good replacement for an all-out manicure, when you don't have the time to put into upkeep or can't afford to experiment with color.
• I don't wear lipstick on an everyday basis, so it's not something I can afford to invest in, but nor do I want to waste my money on cheap products that won't perform. Revlon matte lipsticks are good for when you want a cheap lipstick fix without sacrificing quality: it's really phenomenal to find this kind of staying power and pigmentation at these prices.
• L'Oreal Extra-Intense Liquid Pencil Eyeliner is soft enough to tightline without irritating the eyes, yet does not transfer to the lower lid and seems to be genuinely tear- and sweat-proof. By far the best no-brainer eyeliner I've ever used.
• The frequent name changes to L'Oreal's hair care lineup seems to confuse everyone, but the formulae, at least, seem to stay constant. Currently, their Elsève Smooth-Intense line is quite effective at taming my stubborn, wiry hair, unusually so for a drugstore brand, and I have heard similarly favorable reviews for their other lines. It smells a little off—a bit cloying, a bit synthetic—though, so if you want a pampering experience—which many people want, including myself—look elsewhere.

• As Dain mentioned in her article about Dick Page, one may actually need less makeup after applying a good blush, which should melt into the skin, not stand out against it. More than anything, it's really difficult to look your best without the extra touch that a good blush provides. The beauty of the system is, you may want more, but you only really need one.
• Eyeshadows are the collectible toys of the makeup world, and it's very easy to get caught up in the "gotta catch'em all" game, but every woman who commits to wearing eyeshadow should pay the most meticulous attention to building up a small and select range of neutral shadows, preferably in very fine textures with minimal discernible shimmer that meld with the skin so seamlessly that they don't register as makeup to the eye. It's not just a matter of having prettier eyes: as with clothing, where a good core of basics to work around provides a starting point for explorations into statement pieces, it's necessary to be really secure in your staple shades in order to curb unnecessary spending, avoiding redundancy and ill-considered purchases, which is why I consider this kind of expense an investment. I use three shades from the now-discontinued Dior quint in Brun Casual, which provides a good model for what this kind of collection should look like: a skin-friendly highlight that melts into skin rather than jumping out at you against it (soft opalescent peachy gold), a darker shade to contour with (gray lavender-mauve), and a liner shade that can run the whole gamut between tightlining and deep deep smoky eyes (chocolate brown). Another place to look for these kinds of textures and colors would be Laura Mercier: the authors of this blog cannot recommend the eyeshadows highly enough.
• I could really use a nice brush or two, which I do not own but have used, and I can attest that they make a world of difference in application. They make for more deft and shapely application of eyeshadow and blush, tightlining with powder eyeshadow for a soft look that is hard to replicate with pencil or gel formulae, and more even and fine distribution of powder, without caking. If you're going to shoot for perfection, I'd say it's pretty hard to get there without these kinds of tools.
• Brows are really the linchpin of any look: if you're going to be wearing nothing else, I'd suggest brows, even before blush (but not before concealer). Mine are quite sparse and the hairs are stiff and unruly, so the pomade-like Laura Mercier Brow Definer looks promising.

• Go out, get some exercise and get the blood pumping. Skin, like any other organ, derives most of its nutrition from its blood supply, so getting more flowing to your skin on a regular basis actually makes more sense than slathering it with "nutrient" creams. It also gives you a beautiful flush that lasts all day and looks prettier than any blush. The same goes for hydration: before you spend your money on fancy "water creams" or hyaluronic acid softeners, drink lots of water and eat lots of fruits and vegetables, which have high water contents—usually over 90%.
• Lipids (the kind that are solid at room temperature) often do form an occlusive barrier both in and outsite the body, and sebum overproduction can indeed cause skin problems—though usually not alone but in combination with sluggish skin turnover—but not all lipids are the same: lighter oils such as 100% jojoba are low in the oleic acids that mimic human sebum, making them ideal for skin that is already producing plenty of sebum: the face, for example. Olive oil, which is cheaper and more widely available, is higher in oleic acids and therefore it's more softening, ideal as a deep conditioner for hair and dry patches of skin like elbows and knees. It's greasier, though, so it's really only feasible as a pre-shower treatment. Make sure you clean up after yourself, as olive oil can get really messy, and you don't want slippery floors in the shower
• Vinegar, diluted 4-fold with water, has so far been the most effective defrizzing agent I've used on my hair. The scales on hair lie flatter at low (acidic) pHs. The only caveat is that it smells, as might be expected, so rinse out hair thoroughly after use.
• Beauty ideals have changed over time, but one constant has always been the appearance of healthy, flawless, youthful skin. For the vast majority, it's impossible to attain that ideal without some degree of coverage, but pancake makeup never helps. Lisa Eldridge has pointed out the effectiveness of replacing pancake makeup with local coverage limited to the greatest spots and flaws, coupled with minimal coverage—only powder if you can manage, or the thinnest layers of foundation—for the rest of the skin. When it comes to base, it's often more about technique than the product itself, which is why the aforementioned investment in brushes plays such a role.
• I have thick skin that is slow to clear itself of debris that clogs and dulls the skin, so I exfoliate generously. I use salt on my feet, usually combined with the abovementioned olive oil to give it some slip and cushion the effect of the harsh granules. The combination is very effective at softening and smoothing rough dry heels. For the face, I usually use viscose cloths: cheap, reusable, and a no-brainer to use, though when I want a micropeel, salicylic acid smoothes skin incrementally but noticeably, and wards off mild acne to boot.

Labels: beauty notes, brushes, christian dior, jojoba oil, l'oreal, laura mercier, nivea, revlon, the face shop

8/03/2011 [4]

• I have and like DHC Cleansing Oil, good against bulletproof makeup, but it has a tendency to clog pores. Bioderma Créaline is kinder to pores, hydrating and soothing overheated, tired skin at the end of the day—especially in summer— while it cleanses away quotidian grime and makeup. It's not really a lightweight product, despite its gentleness; you might be surprised at what you can get off with it, and I highly suspect that I'll not need anything more heavy-duty, considering I don't wear spackle.


• I'm not really a skincare fanatic, I'm just happy to find cheap products that work. The Face Shop has the best skincare for value, in my opinion, of the Korean "road shop" brands, and despite its ridiculous gimmicky name, the Marine Stem Cell Toner pampers and cushions my perpetually dehydrated skin with its slippery texture rich in hyaluronic acids and other hydrating agents, so I'm sticking with it.


• Moisturizers are tricky, especially since one often needs different formulations for each season. I'm still looking, though I refuse to pay for anything higher-end than Kiehl's, which I am eyeing next but not completely decided on. If not, I'll default to matching moisturizer from TFS, which forms a reasonably good barrier to seal in the moisture provided by the toner.

Thick, scentless and yellow, with a waxy consistency,
• Kiehl's Ultimate Hand Salve looks and feels like a heavy-duty product, one that you might expect to instantly soften chapped, raw, unhappy hands... but might take you by surprise when it absorbs rapidly and completely, leaving behind no messy residue.

• I would guess that Chanel Vitalumiere contains some unique blend of silicones that is especially adept at smoothing over uneven skin—my skin is fairly rough on a small scale—for a satiny finish. I might also guess that the formula works with the natural oils in my skin, rather than battling against them, transmogrifying unflattering shine into a dewy soft-focus glow, but that is just a guess. All I really know is that this product works such wonders on my skin, I am tempted to blame witchcraft rather than science for actually tempting me to fork over money for a Chanel foundation: horrifyingly expensive, not to mention I secretly dislike the interlocking C's.


• Vichy NormaTeint Anti-Imperfections is really a very matte-finish foundation (for acne-prone skin, if anyone is interested), but the sparse color selection, the fine powdery texture when blended out, and the lasting power like glue make it a better concealer in my opinion, especially in the yellower shades,for everything from undereye circles to ruddy acne scars.


• I admit I'm probably selling out here, as I concede that I prefer to keep my skin as light as possible—any darker, and my olive undertones ensure that I look muddy, or even ill—so sunscreen is a requirement. Shiseido Anessa fulfills all my requirements for a sunscreen—high SPF, broad-spectrum protection, and meaning it when it says "waterproof" on the label—in addition to serving as a mattifying base in summer that actually makes my skin look better by taking down a bit of the heated flush and oily shine that plague me around that time of year. In fact, I don't really need the excuse a natural disaster would provide to justify buying this product, since I have nothing comparably useful in my stash. This is an Asia-exclusive, but I am taking the liberty of including it, since it is quite easily available to me, at least.


• The point of a blush is to replicate a natural rush of blood to the cheeks: for this reason, it is crucial to properly match a blush to the color of the skin. On me, I've never met the color that performs like the bruised mauve of NARS Sin: my guess is that the purplish grey in it is good for neutralizing sallow olive tones, to leave behind only a faintly visible flush of rose. I've even got the hang of applying it with a finger, saving me the trouble of having to buy a brush.


• I actually really like Etude House's brow pencil: a tapering wedge-shaped twist-up crayon, with a hard texture and in a wide variety of shades (who knew that such a cheapie brand would give such seemingly humble considerations as brows the attention they really deserve). With a product like this, I honestly don't see the need to seek out something more expensive.

• I scoff at the notion of high-end mascara (so overpriced, and you throw most of it away) but I would like to live with DiorShow for a little while: it's the only mascara I've ever liked, as opposed to "it gets the job done." I think the secret is in the fat brush with the blunt bristles spaced at extremely tight but regular intervals, coating lashes thickly enough to make an impact, yet separating each hair from each other carefully to avoid the spider effect. I would get a cheapie dupe if I could find that.


• L'Oreal Extra Intense Liquid Pencil liner goes on as smoothly as the name implies, like melted chocolate, but once it sets, turns into a waxy formula that stays on and does not smear or transfer, even through a torrential crying session (as I can attest from personal experience). In brown it imparts to my eyes the depth but not the harshness of black. To be honest I'm cheating a little here, as it's easily obtained in the United States, but is nowhere to be seen in Korea.


• Finally we have come to eyeshadow! Usually the eyeshadows comprise the largest proportion of a stash, not because they are the most frequently used, but because they are the collectible action figures of the makeup world, coming in infinite and infinitely attractive variations and serving little practical purpose whatsoever. (Though, don't take my word for it, I'm an Asian for whom eyeshadow doesn't do much and who is consequently bitter about the fact.) So when paring down a stash, it makes sense to cut away at the eyeshadow collection first. For now, I will only buy two: Laura Mercier Sandstone (a peachy fine bone in a satin finish that imparts an imperceptible glow to skin, not shown) and MAC Shale (an analogue of taupe hovering between silvery grey and sheer lavender, more flattering for my cool and light olive tones than a true brown-based taupe).

• Guerlain Kiss Kiss Essence de Gloss, in 421 Grenat for me, may be the classiest lip gloss that I know of. Now, if someone would please do something about that stupid bling packaging?


• I'd like a good everyday matte rose lipstick for professional settings... but what?

Labels: annick goutal, beauty notes, bioderma, chanel, christian dior, etude house, guerlain, hermes, kiehl's, l'occitane, l'oreal, laura mercier, mac, nars, shiseido, the face shop, vichy

3/03/2011 [0]

Labels: beauty notes, guerlain

8/07/2010 [1]

Labels: beauty notes, misschievous

4/20/2010 [0]

Labels: allure, beauty notes, pixiwoo, prada, too faced

4/01/2010 [8]

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