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Contents
· Fashion Notes: Talking Heads
· Consumer Diaries: March 2010
· Just Notes: Design Sense

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Fashion Notes: Talking Heads
by The Kindly One



Despite ragging on J. Crew in last week's post, I found this interview with J. Crew CEO Miller Drexler, Narciso Rodriguez, Elle editor-in-chief Robbie Myers, and The New York Times's Cathy Horyn interesting and informative, with 90% of my interest being in Drexler and his observations on the business of fashion. Really, in a group featuring Cathy Horyn, Robbie Myers, and Narciso Rodriguez, who would have thought the CEO of J. Crew would be the most interesting person there? That said, his insights on fashion as a business, and a heavily industrial one at that, are what kept me tuned in for forty minutes.

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Fantasy vs. reality: in this case, using reality to inform the fantasy of Vogue.


At an hour long, this interview with Vogue's Sally Singer* left me with a lot to think about, not all of it satisfactory. It's clear the audience is not heavily invested in fashion or has any real knowledge of the industry, only of the perception of it. As such, the questions raised are highly judgmental, and Singer ends up speaking to judgmental presumptions as much as to the questions themselves. I'm not sure she's entirely successful on either point. As someone who checks fashion news sites the way some people check baseball scores, I know who she's talking about when she mentions Thakoon. I know the context of the comment that a $700 dress is reasonable. The audience is unfamiliar with these ideas, however, and without providing the proper context for them, I doubt Singer made fashion seem any more accessible, reasonable, or even related in any way to the audience's worldview. That said, it is still interesting to watch, particularly when Singer discusses her own road to Vogue. I was surprised at how normal and down-to-earth Singer is, given the penchant to promote Vogue contributors as somehow otherworldly. It seems Singer is still strongly connected to her younger self's understanding of fashion as fantasy, a sort of playground for identity. I wonder if that's what keeps her from making more compelling points in this interview; she can't step outside of that paradigm well enough to speak "fashion" to the masses.

Finally, for those truly interested in the business of fashion, you may be well pleased to check out this website of the same name. The website features original content focused on business strategies, deals, and international news, and compiles fashion business news from a host of other sites. The website's original content and point of view are what keep me coming back. Extending beyond the typical soundbites from Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada, the website features incisive analyses of business strategies and aggregates behind-the-scenes information and interviews unseen on other sites.

*Sorry-for the life of me, I can't figure out how to embed this video.

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5/04/2010 [0]



Consumer Diaries: March 2010
by The Kindly One

WATCHING



There has been exactly one season of America's Next Top Model that I've missed. Otherwise, there has not been one moment that I've missed, and the mayhem has gotten even better with the addition of Andre Leon Talley, who has become my New Favorite Thing.

READING

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I've recently gotten back into reading American Vogue. It's something I fall in and out of touch with. The last couple of months have had more interesting articles and editorials to me than in the previous months. Plus, I think that step away made me appreciate it more. I get Vogue now. It's not meant to be taken seriously, really. It's meant to be some reportage of the real world of very privileged people saying very frivolous things and 90% fantasy, an exploration of what happens when you combine very fanciful, exquisite clothing with an Upper East Side sensibility. Because let's face it - even when Vogue does street, it's Lily and Serena van der Woodsen's* idea of "street," not Jenny's. Or even Vanessa's.

This image, sadly, is from Vogue Italia, which promotes captivating cover art, and not American Vogue, which does not.

DAUBING

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Laura Mercier Metallic Creme Eye Colour in Burnished Copper ($22) has turned out to be a sleeper hit in my stash. I probably swatched this color for the first time a year or two ago and fell in love with its complexity, with hints of gold and orange suspended in shimmery red brown. I did not fall in love with the price or the likelihood of it's having very poor lasting power on my very oily lids. I finally caved on it a few months ago and find it's now one of my very favorite toys to reach for. I've found that using the smudger side of a cheap Sephora brush to thinly line my top and bottom lashes works beautifully to give a either a crisp, opaque line or a smudgier, sheer finish, depending on how I work the brush. I then either leave the line as is and tightline with black liner or add NYX's Eggplant or Red Bean Pie on top of Burnished Copper for a vibrant, shimmery pop of purple (the purple side of NARS Eurydice works well, too). The key to the look is Too Faced Shadow Insurance, which gives Burnished Copper lasting power and opacity (it's too sheer otherwise).

WEARING

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I'm really not a fan of leggings as outerwear. I think they lend the wearer to laziness and are largely unflattering. However, I had to break down and buy some when my tights failed to keep me warm in an unreasonably cold, bleak winter. I ended up getting these brushed leggings from Gap ($19.50) in athletic grey and black on sale (which look like they've sold out, leaving only navy). I get it now; there is nothing more comfortable than wearing something formfitting, soft and soothing on the skin. I leave mine under clothes or for loungewear, though.

LISTENING



I have a job that requires me to sit in front of a computer eight hours a day. It is very tedious and very boring (and so are my coworkers). To get through it, I listen to YouTube videos all day long. My favorites are cosmetics reviews and Ricky Gervais podcasts/radio edits. This is one of my favorite Karl Pilkington stories. I just like how he takes something somewhat commonplace and normal - the discussion of cloning - and weaves it into this bizarrely fantastical tale that has its own sense of the commonplace and ordinary to it.

WISHLIST

This could take an age.

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I knew I was in trouble when BleachBlack's Kristin posted this ring a couple of weeks ago. The site's coauthors have extended their collaboration with Urban Outfitters to include this ring. Though I typically don't wear jewelry, I think I could make an exception for something this stand-out and unusual, particularly as it is only $18 and I have a 10% UO code.

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I've been excited about MAC's upcoming Art Supplies collection for a couple of months (US release date April 1; international release later in month). The collection features new Pearlglides and Pro Longwear Lipstain Markers, both of which I wanted to invest in heavily. I love Pearlglides; as I've discussed extensively with Dain, Dorothy, and Anne, my eyelids are too oily to keep on any gel pencil liners except these, which have the requisite grit to stay through the day. I was also excited to try the Lipstain Markers, having grown to prefer lip stains over gloss and lipstick. I'm a bit disappointed by the initial reviews, none of which are impressed with the color range of the Lipstain Markers, with some even saying they smell bad and taste weird. However, everyone's in agreement: the Pearlglides rock. I'm going to get mine on April 1 (I'll be damned if I miss out on these). The ones I'm particularly interested in are Undercurrent, a teal base with gold and green flecks, and Almost Noir, a browned-out plum.

While I'm at MAC, I'd also like a 208 Brow Brush ($19.50). I've never had a brush specifically made for the brow area, and let's be honest, some days it shows.

*In a total aside, perhaps Lily and Serena are the creepy Stepford, less cool, parallax universe version of Judy and Jane Aldridge?

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3/27/2010 [2]



Just Notes: Design Sense
by The Kindly One


When I was a kid, I'd follow my mother around as she bought decorations for the house. I went with it, but any enthusiasm I had for it was more parroted and absorbed from her than it was genuine. I hate the whole idea of decorating. You decorate a cake or a Christmas tree. You can't "decorate" your home without turning it into a kind of dollhouse, which is exactly what a lot of people do with with their Lladro figurines and their complementary colors and furniture suits. I clearly don't think in terms of decoration, or icing the cake, if you will. I think more of design, the marriage of form and function. Good design sacrifices neither one nor the other, the best design being a conduit through which the essence of the product is both revealed and heightened. Hence, a well-designed house wouldn't require ornamentation. All sense of ornamentation or aesthetics would be addressed in the design of the house itself. Furniture would simply complement the design, as do the chairs in the Barcelona Pavilion (above). This is admittedly a very highminded concept of design and largely unachievable. Few of us can afford houses with such a specific design aesthetic. However, with the advent and continual invention of prefab houses such as the Enovo, hopefully this will become more feasible in the coming years.

I recently visited one of those overstyled stores featuring "modern" furniture and home decorations. It presented a very unwittingly American view of European furniture. Still, I liked most of its offerings, finding them spare and well-designed. My favorite was a dining sofa and table similar to this set, the difference being the store featured a proper, low-sitting dining table with its sofa. Kitchens are invariably my favorite rooms, being warm, inviting, peopled, and stocked with food. Add a TV and I'm done. Add a dining sofa and I have a place to sleep.


The store also inevitably had a collection of Taschen art and design books. Although I appreciate Taschen's philosophy - provide quality books at affordable prices - I don't like the books themselves. The writing is boring, and I don't find the books well-designed. The best is left for the cover, and the design is more reliant on current design trends than on its own voice (ironic, considering the house's design series). Instead, I prefer Vogue Paris. Every issue is a lesson in design, from the typography to the styling and editing. All the elements work together. Nothing is superfluous or haphazard.


Mies van der Rohe's Barcelona Pavilion remains one of the most moving buildings I've ever visited. Despite its extreme minimalism, it is warm and serene and brilliantly designed. This is an example of great architecture, which is not a manipulation or domination of space so much as it is working and moving within it. I also appreciate that whoever took this picture titled it "Barcelona Pavilion Money Shot."

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6/10/2009 [1]




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